Skiing
Backcountry Skiing in Ylläs
There is a particular freedom to gliding through Ylläs on backcountry skis. With wide, stable skis designed for ungroomed snow, you can glide through quiet forests, cross open winter landscapes and climb onto the fells without following a fixed route. The equipment is simple, and the basic technique is easy to learn. Even if you've never tried this type of skiing before, you can get started with the right guidance. What you do need is a willingness to learn, and ideally a little tolerance for falling in the snow.
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What is backcountry skiing, exactly?
Backcountry skiing is simply travelling through ungroomed winter terrain on skis designed to handle snow outside prepared tracks.
It shares some of its technique with classic cross-country skiing, but the experience is quite different. Traditional cross-country skis are narrow and designed primarily for travelling efficiently along groomed tracks. Backcountry skis are wider and more stable, allowing you to float through powder, travel between trees and explore terrain where there is no prepared track.
The terminology can be confusing, because different types of skiing can overlap and the same words are not always used in the same way everywhere.
Cross-country skiing
Designed primarily for efficient travel along prepared tracks. The skis are narrow, lightweight and built for gliding rather than deep snow.
Ski touring
Designed for climbing and descending steeper mountain terrain. Specialised bindings allow the heel to lift for the ascent, while climbing skins provide grip. Once at the top, the equipment is set up for the descent, which is a major part of the experience.
Backcountry / forest skiing
In Finland, these terms often describe much the same thing: travelling through snowy forests, frozen lakes and open winter landscapes on wider, more stable skis. The focus is on exploring and travelling through the landscape, rather than climbing a mountain specifically to ski back down it.
That is what we mean by backcountry skiing in Ylläs.
Here, the focus is on exploring forests, frozen lakes and gentle fells on relatively simple equipment. The technique is closest to classic cross-country skiing rather than skating, but the wider skis make it possible to leave the tracks behind and travel through soft snow. You don't need specialised ski-touring equipment or previous experience with ski touring. Depending on the skis you use, you may even be able to wear your normal winter boots.
Where to go backcountry skiing in Ylläs
Ylläs has something that makes backcountry skiing particularly enjoyable: you don't need to go far to find completely different terrain.
Much of the landscape around the villages is relatively flat, with forests, frozen lakes and open fields that are ideal for getting comfortable on the skis. As you gain confidence, the surrounding fells offer gentle climbs, open slopes and wider views.
This makes it easy to adapt a day to your ability and the conditions. If you're new to backcountry skiing, you can stay low in the forest and enjoy the powder without worrying too much about descents. If you're already comfortable on skis, you can gradually work your way towards the fells and explore more open terrain.
Forests and flatter terrain
The flatter areas around Ylläs are ideal for getting comfortable with backcountry skis. There is more space to practice the basic technique, the terrain is generally forgiving, and you can travel a long way without having to deal with difficult descents. For beginners, this is often where the experience starts.
The fells
Once you are comfortable on the skis, the fells open up another side of Ylläs. The climbs are generally gentle, and the reward is the combination of open landscapes, snowy trees and wide views across the surrounding wilderness. The important part is the descent. Even relatively gentle slopes require more control on backcountry skis than on downhill skis, particularly when you are still learning. The route can therefore be adapted to the group you are with. There is no reason to take a beginner onto terrain they are not ready for.
Winter trails
Backcountry skis can also be used on maintained winter trails when appropriate. They are useful for travelling faster and covering distance, but the whole point of backcountry skiing is often to leave the prepared tracks behind and explore the snow between them.
How difficult is backcountry skiing?
Easy to start, harder to master.
Backcountry skiing is accessible to almost anyone, but there is a learning curve. If you have never put skis on before, you can still try it. You just need to be willing to learn, and to accept that you will probably fall a few times. Fortunately, falling into powder is considerably less intimidating than falling onto a hard ski slope.
If you already ski, the basic movement usually comes much faster. The biggest adjustment comes when you start descending.
The challenge is the downhill
Unlike downhill skis, these skis have no traditional metal edges. That makes them excellent for moving naturally through soft snow, but it also means you have less control when turning and stopping on a descent. The technique is different from alpine skiing and takes some time getting used to.
This is why the terrain should match your experience. Beginners can spend most of the day on flatter forest terrain, while more experienced skiers can explore the fells and their gentle slopes. During a guided trip, we teach the basic techniques as we go and adapt the terrain to the group.
The different types of backcountry skis
Not all backcountry skis are designed for the same kind of skiing. In Finland, you'll find everything from long traditional forest skis to modern wide skis like the ones we use on our tours.
The main differences are length, width, stability and the type of binding and boot they use. The right choice depends on whether you want to cover long distances, move through deep powder, or explore more varied terrain.
Traditional forest skis
Traditional Finnish forest skis are long, relatively narrow skis designed for travelling efficiently through snowy forests and across flatter terrain. Their length helps them glide over soft snow and makes them efficient for covering distance, while their relatively narrow shape makes them less demanding on flatter terrain. They are a beautiful part of Finnish skiing culture and still have their place today, particularly for longer journeys through forests and wilderness.
Wide backcountry skis - The OAC Kar 149
Modern wide backcountry skis are shorter and wider, making them much easier to handle in deep snow and dense forest. They provide more flotation in powder and are generally more stable underfoot, while their shorter length makes it easier to turn and manoeuvre between trees. This is the type of ski we use for our tours.
We use the OAC Kar 149 because it is particularly well suited to the terrain around Ylläs. At 149 cm long, they are short enough to manoeuvre easily through the forest, while their wide profile provides excellent flotation in powder. They also have an integrated climbing skin, giving you grip when travelling uphill without needing to attach separate skins.
Another advantage is the binding. It works with normal winter boots rather than specialised ski boots, which makes the whole experience considerably simpler, and means you can keep your feet warm.
The trade-off is downhill control. These skis don't have traditional metal edges, so they don't behave like alpine skis when turning or stopping on a slope. That's something you learn to work with, and one of the reasons we adapt the terrain to the skier's experience.
More technical backcountry skis
There are also narrower, more technical backcountry skis designed for skiers who want greater control and efficiency. These typically use specialised ski boots and bindings, somewhat closer to traditional cross-country equipment. Some models are designed to perform particularly well on harder snow or more demanding terrain, while still being capable of travelling away from prepared tracks. They can be an excellent choice for experienced skiers, but they are not necessarily the best option for someone who simply wants to discover Ylläs and explore the forests.
There is no single “best” backcountry ski. The right ski depends on the terrain, snow conditions and the kind of experience you are looking for. For the deep powder, forests and gentle fells around Ylläs, a short, wide and forgiving ski is often a very good place to start.
What to wear and bring
Dress for the activity, not just the temperature. You can get surprisingly warm while skiing, even when temperatures drop well below -20°C. Use layers that allow you to regulate your temperature and keep a warmer layer in your backpack for stops.
Bring:
Warm base layers
Insulating mid-layer
Windproof outer layer
Warm gloves or mittens
Hat
Warm socks
Winter boots
Backpack
Water or a hot drink in a thermos
Headlamp
Phone
Hand warmers
Don't choose winter boots that fit tightly around your toes. Your feet need enough room for warm air to circulate around them. A slightly roomy boot is often warmer than a tight one, especially when temperatures drop well below freezing.
Safety & responsible skiing
Backcountry skiing is an accessible activity, but you are still travelling through a winter wilderness.
Know the terrain
Avoid avalanche-prone terrain unless you have the appropriate knowledge and equipment. Most recreational backcountry skiing around Ylläs does not require entering avalanche terrain.
Take the cold seriously
Frostbite and hypothermia are the main cold-related risks. Keep moving when temperatures are very low, have enough insulation for breaks and pay particular attention to your hands, feet and face.
Respect your limits
Fatigue becomes particularly important when skiing downhill. If your technique deteriorates, the risk of falling increases. There is nothing wrong with turning around, choosing flatter terrain or taking the skis off for a difficult section.
Carry basic safety equipment
A charged phone is important, and mobile coverage is generally very good around Ylläs. A headlamp is useful even during the short winter days. Don't rely on your phone alone, though. Know where you are going and make sure someone knows your plans when travelling independently.
Leave the landscape as you found it
Take your rubbish with you, leave wilderness huts and kota clean, and respect other people using the trails and the landscape. And remember that prepared cross-country ski tracks are for cross-country skiers. Don't walk or travel along the tracks in a way that damages them.
You may encounter reindeer, hare, foxes, squirrels and birds. Encounters with dangerous wildlife are extremely rare. Give animals space and let them move away rather than approaching them.
When is the best time to go?
Backcountry skiing is possible throughout the main winter season, but the character of the experience changes as the season progresses.
December & early January
The days are short, so daylight limits how long you can comfortably explore. On the other hand, the darkness creates a very different atmosphere, and clear evenings can offer a chance of seeing the Northern Lights.
January & February
This is often the most magical period for winter landscapes. The trees can carry huge amounts of snow, and stable cold conditions create excellent powder for backcountry skiing.
March onwards
More daylight means longer days outside and more time to explore. As temperatures rise, however, snow conditions gradually change. The snow becomes firmer and the trees lose some of their heavy snow cover.
Why go with a local guide?
You can rent backcountry skis and explore Ylläs independently. But the equipment is only one part of the experience. A local guide can choose terrain according to the snow, weather and ability of the group. That might mean spending the day in quiet powder-filled forests, heading towards a fell for wider views, or changing the route completely because conditions are better somewhere else.
You also get help with the technique. For someone new to these skis, a few simple tips can make a huge difference, particularly when climbing, turning and descending. And then there is the local knowledge: knowing where to go, which areas are worth visiting in today's conditions, and where you can stop for a fire and grill some sausages in a kota.
The goal isn't simply to take you skiing. It's to help you experience Ylläs from the inside, without having to figure out the equipment, terrain and route yourself.
Good to know
Common questions.
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